Raising goats in Florida

1. Goats are herd animals

Goats live in social groups with a pecking order. Two wethers (neutered males) or a doe and her daughter make a good starter pair. Keep intact bucks separate from does except at breeding time, because bucks smell strongly and are not good pets.

2. Breeds suited to Florida

Florida’s heat, humidity, and heavy internal-parasite pressure favor hardy, parasite-resilient breeds.

Look for goats from a breeder who tests for parasites, culls susceptible animals, and is open about herd health. Ask about the herd’s status for CAE, CL (caseous lymphadenitis), and Johne’s disease.

3. Fencing

The old saying is that a fence that holds water will hold a goat, and it’s a high bar. Goats climb, jump, squeeze, and push. Good fencing is the foundation of keeping goats happy and neighbors happy.

• Height: aim for at least 4 feet, and 5 feet for active breeds and bucks.
• Materials: woven wire, 4×4-inch welded-wire cattle or goat panels, or strong combination fencing work well. Use smaller openings for kids, and avoid wire openings large enough for a head to pass through. Horned goats can get stuck in small openings, so check spacing and horn type.
• Electric helps: a hot wire along the inside, at about goat-chest height, keeps goats off the fence. Goats still need to be trained to it.
• Remove climbing aids: stumps, rocks, shed roofs, fence corners, and anything they can stand on. A goat on top of a stump can clear a fence.
• Posts and bracing: goats lean hard on fences, so use sturdy posts and strong corners.
• Pallet note: pallet pens can work as solid walls and wind blocks for small areas, but goats will climb and chew them, so keep them tall, gap-free, and backed by wire or a hot wire along the top inside.

4. Shelter

Goats hate getting wet. You don’t need a fancy barn. A simple 3-sided shed or run-in shelter is enough, as long as it’s dry, well-ventilated, and out of the wind.

• Size: a rule of thumb is roughly 10–15 sq ft of covered space per standard-sized goat, with more room for large breeds and for kidding.
• Dry floor: raise it or put it on well-drained ground. A pallet or wood platform keeps goats up off wet ground.
• Ventilation and shade: good airflow matters in Florida’s humidity. Make sure there’s shade outdoors too.
• Cold snaps: goats can handle Florida winters if they’re dry and out of drafts. Newborn kids need extra protection.
• Safety: avoid sharp edges and exposed screws. Keep hay off the floor and out of the rain.

5. Hay, browse & minerals

• Hay: good-quality grass hay is the base when browse is limited. Alfalfa or other legume hay is a rich option for growing kids and lactating does. Feed it in a hay feeder rather than on the ground to reduce waste and worm exposure.
• Browse and forage: goats love brush, vines, and weeds. Rotating them to fresh areas is good for the goats and for parasite control.
• Grain: many goats don’t need much, if any. Grain is useful for lactating does, growing kids, or thin animals. Be careful with bucks and wethers: too much grain can contribute to urinary stones (calculi), which are an emergency.
• Minerals: offer a loose mineral made for goats in a covered feeder. Loose minerals are generally taken better than blocks. Don’t use sheep minerals for goats, because they can lack the copper goats need.
• Copper: goats need copper for health and parasite resilience, and forage in much of the Southeast can be low in it. Your vet can advise on supplementation, including copper oxide wire particles, which are dosed by weight under veterinary guidance.
• Salt and water: provide plain salt access, and keep water clean and out of the sun.

6. Hoof trimming

• How often: roughly every 6–10 weeks, depending on the goat, the terrain, and how fast the hooves grow. Soft, sandy or wet ground doesn’t wear hooves down much, so Florida goats often need regular trims.
• When: trim after rain or a bath, when hooves are softer.
• Tools: sharp hoof trimmers or shears, a hoof pick, and styptic powder for small nicks.
• How: restrain the goat on a stand or with a helper. Clean out the hoof, trim the overgrown outer wall down level with the sole, and stop when you see pink tissue. Aim for a flat bottom and level heel.
• Watch for foot rot and scald: a foul smell, lameness, or soft, separated hooves. Ask your vet about treatment, and keep pens dry.

The first time, have an experienced goat keeper or vet show you. A video helps, but hands-on practice is better.

7. Parasites & FAMACHA

In Florida’s warm, wet climate, internal parasites, especially the barber pole worm (Haemonchus contortus), are the most common serious goat health problem. These worms suck blood and cause anemia, and can kill goats quickly, especially kids.

• FAMACHA scoring: pull down the lower eyelid and compare its color to a chart. Red is healthy and pale pink or white means anemia. Learn it from a trained person, since the system works best with proper training.
• Other warning signs: weakness, a swollen jaw (“bottle jaw”), weight loss or a rough coat, and lagging behind the herd.
• Deworm only when needed: deworming every goat on a calendar breeds resistant worms. Base treatments on FAMACHA, body condition, and fecal egg counts, with your vet’s guidance.
• Management helps most: don’t overstock, rotate pastures, let browse grow, keep feed and water off the ground, and choose resilient breeds. Cull goats that repeatedly need treatment.
• Coccidiosis is another concern for kids, with signs such as scours, a hunched look, and slow growth. Keep pens clean and dry, and ask your vet about prevention and treatment.

8. Other health basics

• Vaccines: the CD&T vaccine (Clostridium perfringens types C and D and tetanus) is standard. Ask your vet about the schedule for kids and does.
• Vet: find a vet who treats goats before you need one. Many dog and cat vets don’t see goats.
• Body condition: feel over the spine and ribs regularly. This tells you more than looking.
• Deer and meningeal worm: white-tailed deer carry a parasite that can cause neurological disease in goats in the Southeast. Ask your vet about prevention, and avoid wet spots deer frequent.
• Bloat and enterotoxemia can strike quickly after a feed change. Change feeds slowly, and keep vaccines current.
• First-aid kit: thermometer (normal is about 101.5–103.5°F), gloves, iodine, a drenching syringe, electrolytes, and your vet’s number.

9. Kidding basics

• Before kidding: record the breeding date, feed the doe well, and ask your vet about a CD&T booster for her about 4–6 weeks before kidding. Set up a clean, dry, draft-free kidding pen.
• Signs of labor: a swollen, tight udder, softened ligaments beside the tail, restlessness, pawing, and clear discharge.
• Normal birth: two front hooves and a nose, like a diver. Most kids arrive within about an hour of active pushing.
• Call a vet if the doe pushes hard for 30 minutes or longer without progress, if you see just a single foot or a tail, or if she seems exhausted.
• Newborn care: clear the nose and mouth, dry the kid, dip the navel in iodine, and make sure the kid nurses colostrum in the first hours. A common guide is about 10% of body weight over the first day.
• Males not kept for breeding: talk with your vet about castration timing. Waiting until about 8–12 weeks is often recommended to lower urinary stone risk.
• Disbudding: optional, done within the first week or two by an experienced person. Ask your vet.

10. Before-you-buy checklist

• Planned for at least two goats
• Built a 4–5 foot fence that is tight, braced, and free of climbing aids
• Prepared a dry, 3-sided shelter
• Stocked loose goat minerals (with copper), hay, and clean water
• Found a vet who sees goats
• Learned FAMACHA and set up fecal testing
• Bought hoof trimmers and learned how to use them
• Checked local zoning and livestock rules

This guide is general information for beginners and isn’t veterinary advice. Work with a licensed veterinarian and your local UF/IFAS Extension office for your goats and your property.